TITLE: Tailoring 19th Century Period Men’s Coats With Contemporary Suits: Frock Coats 1830-1890, Tail Coats, Morning Coats, Sack Suits, Norfolk Jackets & Knickers

DESCRIPTION:
This is a lecture/demonstration covering period details of seaming, collars, lapels, sleeves, and coat skirts in 19thC men’s wear. Fitting the contemporary suit on a person or mannequin with the chosen style lines for the bodice portion of the coat is the starting point. Patterning the new coat skirt, collar and lapels and making sleeve adjustments is the second part of the demonstration followed by discussion on inner structure and linings to finish the new parts.

Time: 4-8 hour demonstration class. This could also be a 2 - 3 day hands-on class.

PRESENTER:
Kathie Brookfield
University of Cincinnati College Conservatory of Music

CONTACT INFORMATION:
Kathie Brookfield
University of Cincinnati
College Conservatory of Music
Room 2480 CCPA
Cincinnati OH, 45221-0003

H: 513-662-3937
O: 513-556-9409

Email: Kathie.Brookfield@uc.edu

SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS:
The space should include tables large enough for drafting patterns in full scale with a surface that can be pinned into with pushpins.

Equipment:
male dress forms size 36-52 (size 38 will be used for demonstration)
zigzag sewing machine and thread
steam iron and ironing board
various tailor hams
hand sewing needles and thread
tracing wheel and tailor carbon
tailor’s chalk
brown kraft paper
pencils
tailors square
36”or 48” metal ruler
18”X2” and 12”X1” or 6”X1” clear plastic ruler
varyform curve
push pins
muslin
and straight pins

For hands-on class, each participant should provide
a contemporary man’s suit with at least one pair of matching trousers
(the suit should be at least one size larger than person to be fitted, unless it is an oversized style)
lining fabric
horsehair canvas
Ľ”stay tape
white and black thread
paper and fabric scissors
tape measure
rulers
varyform curve
hand sewing needles